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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned high-end establishments. But, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest place achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary honour.